I am planning to order my first bespoke suit soon. The fact is that I havent had the fortune to connect with any Neapolitan tailors like I have a couple in London, so I asked Suresh what they were comfortable with. From what Ive read on your blog and others, I think W&S are the superior tailor and Id rather compromise my style and get a better quality suit. We now turn to the problems I believe the suit has. I guess this is relevant to the greatest number of people in the context of a bespoke suit, and it would great to know what are the key points that should be thought about (choice of cloth etc.). If you decide to trust one and go for it how far can you impose your ideas of cut and style on them? He was given the land by King Charles II in 1668 as a gift for his support of the Crown during the Civil War. I think there is often a risk with bespoke that people expect perfection, and everything to have been considered for them, when it is more interactive, and does have most benefits over time. Can you recommend me some affordable tailors in london? Its not that big, no, around 300 depending on cloth. which is better in your opinion? I wouldnt go if you want that strong shoulder, no. The lap seam is very much a bit of style flair and is probably worth doing without on your first suit. I also expect that you may receive favorable treatment in many instances, possibly skewing the actual standard of service. Simon. So should be here for the long term. I do think its worth asking, as they are generally quite open to such ideas, but at the same time if they seem hesitant then dont push it. Like this article? He values fit above everything, but as he does all the work himself, it is a very easy relationship. The little things are not decisive, they decide everything, said the popular actor Harvey Read More, A Detailed Guide to Savile Row suit for Men The company with more than 200 years of history began as a uniform company for the military. Say, could I ask the tailor whether he would be willing or able to make a Huntsman-style jacket I fear he would feel rather offended.. I can see a grey being useful, but that's about all probably. Just been to W&S to collect my suit and have to say Sian has done a wonderful job. There isnt necessarily a third fitting, but there will usually be one or two small things that its worth refining if its your first suit. Includes digital magazine access + a free gift. W&S is much superior that is a bespoke suit, cut by a Savile Row-trained tailor, where the others are just MTM. But then youre paying over twice the price. I mean its so majestic, amazing you should do a tutorial on it. Simon are you familiar with Redmayne 1860s MTM service and, if so, between Redmaynes 1860 Acclaim MTM and W&S classic bespoke, which would be better quality? Thanks Simon. I initially thought I would go for A&S as I love the style and think they would guide me through the process extremely well. When buttoning I believe this creates a line along the right side of the jacket and most importantly pushes the collar up and it doesnt stay flush to my neck. Ah, no that was navy trousers, serge. Was this cloth amongst their offerings at their base price or was there a cost supplement? At this stage of your life, I wouldnt stretch to one of the others. Free shipping for many products! This shouldnt really be surprising. The timeline is very similar to other bespoke offerings usually 4-6 weeks between each stage, often quicker towards the end. Would Rubinacci London do the trick better than Russell at Graham Browne, with whom Ive already had one rushed suit made in the past? I just wonder if for something traditional and rarer like morning dress they would be able to help guide me through the process as well as A&S. Great article . Did the tailoring being done on the subcontinent mean that the suit took longer to make compared to their S. Row Bespoke? I can understand why some people dont want a suit where any of it is made abroad. Id suggest using a shop you can visit and have more of a relationship with for MTM trousers. Vergallo would be a great starting point. Really like the balance and proportions of this particular suit, perhaps it would be worthy of a style breakdown sometime? The cut of this coat gives, to my eyes, a pyramid shape with your shoulders narrower than hips/waist. Great thank you very much! I find it hard to reconcile the major price spread of these two suits with the Savile Row cost analysis you produced, where production costs were merely 1700 and most of it attributed to the cutters salary; here in both cases, the cutter, the fittings are done in London, and one has to add the transportaton costs while the non production costs apart from the factory rent are probably the same for the classic and the foreign suit., So the main area of savings is the other workers salaries which on top of my head are essentially a few 100s, so not a great potential for cost savings with a move to India. I am no expert in cloth so I can very easily have been mistaken and, of course, you know better than I what you have being made. Very flattering! It does not matter if WS are getting some part of the work done in India, the suit looks fantastic in the photos. The result may be due to specifics in my case. They will be very different to GB, in cost (more), in quality (higher) and in style (very soft, opposite of GB). And there arent many good soft MTM options (we also tend not to review them often as they change so frequently, unlike the tailors). I appreciate that both of these are at the low-end of bespoke service, so perhaps my expectations were to high, being first-time bespoke? I have checked them out however note that: The reason I ask is that Im trying to find a sensible mid way point balancing cost/quality (budget range 1.5k to 3k), Yes, it is worth the extra over GB. Thanks Fashion Designer - Whitcom & Shaftesbury Several top brands including Dunhill, Gieves & Hawkes, and Ozwald Boateng offer this service. On the style questions, eg pockets, have you looked through the Suit Style series of posts? From the sounds of it you were quite impressed with the offshore made suit. Simon I live in Geneva but get over to London at least once a year sometimes up to 3 times a year although never with any great predictability. The Classic Bespoke follows the same fitting process as our Savile Row Bespoke. Ready-to-wear garments, no matter how well altered, can never be as accurately fitted as one made by a skilled craftsman who constructs it especially for your body. I had a second basted fitting, in which some of the issues were accounted for. The navy cloth appeared to be the same toile fabric as W&S had used for my baste fitting, as the correct cloth was out of stock and the toile helped us to progress without waiting. Thats largely due to length of the jacket, and a slightly fuller skirt. 11 St. George Street is a throwback to more elegant times. B.) Our coats are fully handmade with floating canvases. I have gone for a three piece with extra trousers in the classic bespoke and this makes me feel happy! Is there an equivalent for this type of value with other articles (i.e. This is a proper Savile Row suit. (And which?). I am considering the Classic Bespoke option for my first bespoke commission. This makes Whitcomb & Shaftesburys classic bespoke service most likely, though Sextons offshore bespoke service might also be an option. Maybe this blog will help change that. This is great to know. Can one bring the suits in for complimentary sponge and press, for example? new to bespoke), but i would certainly be interested to know more about 1) what to realistically expect from bespoke, and 2) how to get the most from the process. I will give my jackets back to my W&S and Zizolfi for adjustment. It's still early days for the two suit, but signs are good that the Indian suit in particular (Whitcomb & Shaftesbury called it Classic Bespoke) will be a great value option for anyone looking to try bespoke for the first time. Congrats on the blog. Hi Simon. Answer: The street's namesake is Sir George Savile, a 17th century politician who became the 1st Marquess of Halifax. When the auto-complete results are available, use the up and down arrows to review and Enter to select. I wanted to share my experience at W&S. Indeed, the tailor will usually line up the waist button marks when pinning the jacket during a fitting. Wonderful. Their 'classic bespoke' service, which involves cutting the suit in London (by a very experienced Row cutter), and then having it largely made in India (in a workshop run by a Row tailor) promised fantastic value at 1350 + VAT for a suit. Custom-made apparel is the product of exact measurements taken for you, instead of an imaginary figure. Now looking forward to first fitting in 6-7 weeks. Ie price including VAT is GBP 1362. Today I met with Tim Everest, W&S, C&D, and Gieves & Hawkes. Thanks for your advice though, its useful. Like all English pretty much, its just too sharp and structured. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style . This is a price bracket that most of your readers could stretch to and so we need more of this from yourself . I had a strict deadline though. Im a younger guy and as much as I dislike the contempary extremes Im a big fan of thoms style. 192 following. Although given how many issues tailors have had over the past 30 years (particularly changing business models or cutters so youre relationship goes out the window) I think theyve got as much chance of staying around as anyone. Having worn the suit for a couple of months I am planning to request some adjustments (trouser length, take in the waist a bit) but overall a great experience and value is hard to beat. I havent had a suit or jacket made in a while. Subscribe now and get up to 61% off the cover price. sorry if its a silly question. Im looking forward to stopping by! So, the duo determined that theyd fulfill the role of giving clients good, honest guidance, before recruiting a team of Savile Row trained cutters and tailors, including John McCabe and Bob Bigg, highly experienced stalwarts of the Row with close to 120 years combined experience. I wear my suit 12 hours a day but tend to have the jacket hung up most of the time, so really its trousers that are as important to me. Im going to order my first bespoke suit and I know your not supposed to wear it two days in a row and ideally once a week But then what do you wear for the rest of the week whilst your building your bespoke suit collection to the point you have 5 bespoke suits in rotation? I had suits made in both, in order to compare them. When writing about the second suit might you include some further detail about the Cutter/Coatmaker and their views on what makes a good silhouette? I also appreciate your point about opening up the possibilities, rather than providing something concrete and narrow, which is not something i had considered, but fully makes sense. Once your account is created, you'll be logged-in to this account. Thanks Chris, thats always helpful, and yes absolutely, aware of how beneficial it would be. Because theyre made specifically for each customer, they also tend to fit better than store-bought suits. It almost feels like cheating. It gets made for a lot of weddings. Desperate to find an occasion to wear it again! The reality seems to be that you must thoroughly educate yourself regarding manufacture and design points, and have a clear sense for what you want, in order to get the most out of the process. Before you raise an eyebrow, keep in mind that some of the best bespoke garments in the world come out of India, and having ordered a Classic Bespoke overcoat, suit and smoking jacket myself, Im very happy to vouch for its impressive quality. And 100 Hands does shirts in India but as the quality is so high, its still expensive, I had a navy worsted two piece suit made at W&S which was cut by Sian. Thats a really great question, and very useful experiences of bespoke too. Theyre reasonably flexible, but I wouldnt ask them to do Neapolitan. Our bespoke suits are made without compromise by the best craftsmen in Savile Row. This article describes my way of creating a closet for a character. Hi Ethan, This site is protected by reCAPTCHA Enterprise and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. I dont know her which says something. Do you think W&S is better value, better workmanship than Alexandra Wood ( do you know whether AW is bespoke proper, fully canvassed, basted etc ) ? Whilst on the topic of suits at the cheaper end, have you had any experience of Des Merrion in Leeds? Apr 11, 2018 - Whitcomb & Shaftesbury final suit - great value bespoke. But when in 1760 Read More. But different to an A&S drape cut, and very different to anything French or Italian. Hi Simon, quick follow up on the cloth and finding the right shade of navy for business. top of page. Have been considering a Drakes MTM recently Simon, as a soft option. Your comments in the discussion are helpful in triangulating their merits. 1. Am I safe to give them full and total control and have the suit made in their house style, or will I end up regretting it? Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is based on George Street in Mayfair, just a few paces from Savile Row, and offers two bespoke services: its Savile Row Bespoke service, which is made in the. I think theyd certainly do a very good job. You described some English suits as cuted with small drape (e.g. Would be nice to see W&S in the style breakdown series. A.) The prices are comparable. I have a coat in a pale wool that perhaps could have looked like a toile? If not Grahame Browne has changed his pricing? No, the style is different in other ways too. Its unlikely your right armhole doesnt have to be lower, unless that right shoulder is significantly smaller. Purely on craft, yes Id choose someone like Jennie. Many have looked at his handwork and been amazed, more so when they hear about his prices. Should the button and buttonhole align when the jacket is unbuttoned? Can I trust bespoke services there as I would in Napoli? The shoulders here are certainly not narrower than the waist, but the length of the jacket and the size of my hips does mean that the very bottom is wider than the shoulders. Looking forward to know your thoughts. Eventually, in a visit to London last summer, I had W & S make me a versatile grey flannel three-piece and I was extremely pleased: absolutely wonderful cut and fit, and exquisite hand finishing. . Whitcomb Shaftesbury -Bespoke. I dont think W&S has any different margins to other bespoke tailors. Also , Its great that you still bring your expertise to clothes within a lower price bracket .sometimes I think were losing you to the luxury market a little too much . Quite pleased with my first classic bespoke suit from W&S. Or perhaps heard anything about his work? Thanks for advice. Apparel & clothing. The fabric will be high quality and the stitching will be precise and flawless.Secondly, a bespoke suit will always be perfectly tailored to the individual. Thank you. The biggest danger is when you get to structural things (eg shoulders) or things that arent linear and therefore easy to describe (eg the shape of a lapel). Thanks very much. However I think it worthy to note that UK perfumers are clearly upping the game in involving customers on a fragrance experience. If Im not completely wrong, but the diffrence in price is not that very big. Bespoke three peice suit in navy 13oz wool #bespoke # savilerow #handmade #suit #style #elegance #hollandandsherry #whitcombshaftesbury #mensstyle #menswear #rakish #elegance hi Simon, very interesting article. A little drape like Henry Poole uses is fine, but not more. A bit more expensive but still good. Thanks for your reply. Their classic, bespoke suits and coats will be accurately fitted to the exact measurements of your body. Bespoke suits are thus more expensive and take longer to produce, but they will provide you with a better fit than a custom suit ever could. This is slightly out of my budget. These might include intricate monograms, unique button placements, or other personal touches that make the suit truly one-of-a-kind. i.e. This is something most tailors dont do, but you do occasionally see it used on particularly soft or lightweight cloths. Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Whitcomb + Shaftesbury UK Bespoke One Button Gray Blazer-No Pants-Fit 43 Short at the best online prices at eBay! Interesting to see how well a lime tie works too; I wouldnt have considered that. The real benefits of bespoke are in the long term, for example when you have gone through it once or twice, and know exactly what you want and what to ask about during the sessions. Couldnt have been more pleased with it! Black mens jeans: how to choose and with what to wear? Yes Stuart, Ill certainly do one. I am 510 pretty straightforward normal build and looking for a conservative basic Navy MTM. Very happy with her. And quality is quality, no matter where its sourced. I commissioned a suit from W&S and Siam was the cutter. Have a search for them on the blog and read all the background. Thanks. Great width and shape of the lapels with a nice roll, and well balanced gorge (dont you think the modern gorge placement is too high?). Back in the day, Kilgour French and Stanbury cut with a good bit of drape. What are your thoughts on Huntsman 100 (I think thats what its called right) anyway? Also for the sake of comparison would the drawbacks of mtm for soft tailoring (disregarding fit as obvious) be less of the hand details. Thanks. Vergallo doesnt get enough attention they remain excellent value. Thanks for the response What is your view towards a staple in soft suiting in regards to lining and canvassing Half/quarter lined whilst Thin Half/minimal canvassing? Of how beneficial it would be worthy of a relationship with for MTM trousers not that very.! Perhaps it would be worthy of a style breakdown sometime say Sian has done a job! Compared to their S. Row bespoke planning to order my first bespoke commission be accurately fitted to the problems believe... Store-Bought suits absolutely, aware of how beneficial it would be the tailor will usually line up the waist marks... 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